Top rope climbing
The peer review differs slightly between top rope climbing and lead climbing. Below we go through how to do a peer review for top rope climbing. Scroll down to read about how to do a peer review for lead climbing.
During the peer check, it is important that you check the whole system from one end of the rope to the other. If you want to have a mnemonic, you can learn this rhyme:
4 things on the climber, 4 things on the belayer, and 3 things on the rope that we check before a climb can begin.
"4-4-3"
4 things on the climber
- Is the harness tight enough above the hips?
- Is the buckle threaded correctly? Check that the strap is pulled back through the buckle one more time on alpine harnesses.
- Is the rope threaded correctly through the harness?
- Is the double-eight correctly tied, the rope loop the right size and at least 10 cm on the free rope end?
4 things on the securer
- Is the harness tight enough above the hips?
- Is the buckle threaded correctly? Check that the strap is pulled back through the buckle one more time on alpine harnesses.
- Is the carbine in the fuse loop and locked?
- Is the rope correctly threaded through the brake and carabiner?
3 things on the rope
- Is the rope in two carabiners in the anchor?
- Is the rope twisted?
- Is there a stop knot?
The peer check is now done and the belayer can say "Belay complete!" to which the climber replies "I'm climbing!".
Lead climbing
During the peer check, it is important that you check the whole system from one end of the rope to the other. If you want to have a mnemonic, you can learn this rhyme:
4 things on the climber, 4 things on the belayer, and 2 things on the rope that we check before a climb can begin.
"4-4-2"
4 things on the climber
- Is the harness tight enough above the hips?
- Is the buckle threaded correctly? Check that the strap is pulled back through the buckle one more time on alpine harnesses.
- Is the rope threaded correctly through the harness?
- Is the double-eight correctly tied, the rope loop the right size and at least 10 cm on the free rope end?
4 things on the securer
- Is the harness tight enough above the hips?
- Is the buckle threaded correctly? Check that the strap is pulled back through the buckle one more time on alpine harnesses.
- Is the carbine in the fuse loop and locked?
- Is the rope correctly threaded through the brake and carabiner?
2 things on the rope
- Has the rope been walked through?
- Is there a stop knot?
The peer check is now done and the belayer can say "Belay complete!" to which the climber replies "I'm climbing!".
Commands
We use the following commands to minimize the risk of miscommunication. If there are more rope teams around you, you can add your friend's name to the commands, e.g. "Take home, Elin!".
"Fuse ready!"
The belayer is ready and informs the climber accordingly. Eye contact between climber and belayer before starting the climb is important.
"I'm climbing!"
The climber answers the above before climbing.
"Take him home!"
Tighten the rope. The climber may be about to fall or may want to rest for a while.
"I got you!"
The rope is as taut as it can be and the climber can sit in the harness without falling.
"Slacka!"
Opposite of "Bring home!". Give out more rope. Mainly used in lead climbing.